 Verjuice
Re-discovered |
During
the internationalisation of the culinary arts in the 1980s,
verjuice made a dynamic comeback. Among the new proponents
are Australian restaurateurs and wine farmers who led
a revival of this classic condiment.
In
the forefront is Maggie Beer, an Australian restaurateur,
chef, fruit, wine and game-bird farmer who re-discovered
verjuice in the early 1980’s. Her earliest findings
date back to 1375 (Taillevent, Frenchman, Master Cook
to King Charles V), although she speculates that verjuice
originated in Roman times but can find no writings to
substantiate that belief. Maggie is the author of several
cookery books of which “Maggie’s Table”
is her latest. It is easily available in South African
book stores.
Her
commercial success with the product has led to other winefarmers
making their own versions of verjuice and Australia is
undoubtedly the largest producer of verjuice in the world
today. However, it remains a difficult product to obtain
and is sold in very few specialist food and gourmet outlets
throughout the world.
In
her writings she reports that in 1999 historians, restaurateurs
and chefs in Perigord joined forces to reinstate the tradition
of making verjuice – and are now doing so in small
commercial quantities. In Burgundy however, despite the
production of verjuice as an ingredient for Djion mustard,
a visit to the area revealed total ignorance of the condiment
by food stores and vinoteques alike.
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